Tuesday, 17 June 2014

The Leed & Liverpool Canal, from Leigh to Liverpool 27.5.14 - 7.6.14



The Leeds & Liverpool Canal

From Leigh to Liverpool 27.5.14 - 7.6.14

Under Bridge 11 was the place to stop nearest Tescos, and as you go under the bridge the Bridgewater Canal comes to an end and the Leeds & Liverpool Canal begins. free spirit
Leaving the Bridgewater canal, onto the Leigh Branch of the Leeds & Liverpool canal 
Moored up we went to the huge Tescos up the hill

We moored up just the other side of the bridge, trundled off up the hill to Tescos and stocked up with food.

After a quick trip to Currys for a spindryer and to the pet shop for dog food we were on our way again out of Leigh.
Wide open and water filled surroundings, that's what we've got now, but very similar to the Bridgewater Canal

Leaving Leigh the countryside and canal are similar to the Bridgewater canal. There's open marshland all around and the canal has high concrete banks.
Plank Lane swing bridge... used to be manned but cutbacks mean you have to do it yourself now..

After a mile or so we get to Plank Lane Swing bridge.
It's a very busy road bridge operated with a BW key, lots of traffic queues up while Paul opens the bridge for me to go through!
And were now in the countryside again, making our way to Dover Lock
After another couple of miles of embankment and sunken surroundings (there was lots of mining here years ago and the landscape is one of marshlands and lakes, now popular nature reserves) we pull over at Dover Lock (not a lock but a bridge) moorings. 


Moored up at Dover Lock moorings, the mooring bollards all painted up like magic mushrooms!
We've been told this is the safest place to stop before Wigan, so not knowing the area we'll take any advice like that! There's a couple of other boats here so that's always a good sign.
We walk through the meadows and woodland, through marshy bog land....
Jack stinks, so he has to go for a swim... 

Its lovely and quiet and the walks are good for Jack. we walk over the marshes and woodlands and over corn fields and round the lakes. Jack gets smelly and filthy and has to go for a swim to clean off!
We meet Jack's double, except Freddie is still clean!

We even meet his double, a little springer called Freddie! Same temperament as Jack, quiet and shy, and very similar markings and head!

We stayed here, out of the wind, and rain for the next three days. The weather was terrible, we lit a fire and only went out for walks with Jack!
On Friday 30th May it was finally a dry day. Although it wasn't a sunny warm day, there was no rain forecast for the day.
Paul and Jack walk the towpath while I cruise the boat

Paul and Jack set off for the three mile walk up to our first lock in Wigan while I cruise the boat there. High concrete banks line the canal, flat open marshlands and lakes surround us.
The high sides of the canal is very different to any others we've been on...
The lakes here, known as 'flashes', surround the canal on both sides

The Wigan locks are all huge, wide and deep. As we get to the first lock there are already two boats going up, so we have to wait until they're up the top and then drain the water out before we can get in.
Waiting on the lock landing for the lock to empty, the force of the water is pretty strong here

It's such a huge lock it all takes a while, but were finally up the top and out of the huge gates.
We head on round the corner to the next lock...

We've got another straight away, just around the corner so Paul and Jack set off up the towpath only to be greeted by a lady with a windlass who has set the next lock and they're waiting for us! 
Brilliant, it's so much easier when there's two boats in the double locks together, and Paul gets a helping hand too!
It's pretty rough around here... not a desirable place to be!
The area is really rough here, only the night before a couple on their boat were shot at with BB guns with threats to kick their windows in! They had to leave their moorings at 10pm and get somewhere safer.
So we get in the lock with narrow boat Memphis, owned by Edna and John. Ed is 75 and John is 78! And a truly amazing and lovely couple they were too with a very beautiful boat indeed!
Leaving the second lock of the day with John and Edna, and n.b. Memphis
We left the lock and immediatly we were at the junction where the Leigh Branch meets the mainline Leeds and Liverpool Canal.
The junction with the Leeds & Liverpool Canal, we're heading left, the Wigan 21 locks on our right

The Wigan flight of 21 locks was on our right (were saving that for later) and we were going left to Liverpool.
Side by side we make our way down through the big lock in Wigan, Paul and Ed on the lock gates

We get through the next lock with Memphis, and then over to our left is the water point at the C&RT offices. So we pull over and wave a cheery goodbye to our new friends, Ed and John.
We could only get in at this angle, never mind, we got our water and dumped our rubbish

After filling up and dumping rubbish we were on our way again to the next huge lock, and in the distance we can see a boat waiting to go in, brilliant, were not on our own!
Turns out it was Ed and John, they'de got the lock ready and were waiting for us to go through with them!
So down we go again, Paul and Ed on the lock gates, John and I on the boats...
We arrive at 'Wigan Pier', straight ahead of us on a 90 degree bridge hole bend....
It's all pretty rough around here, Ed walks the towpath as we make our way through Wigan
Razor wire is on most walls... and the graffiti is rough
Wigan Football club, view from the canal
Onwards past Wigan Athletic football ground, and into our next lock, and in came Memphis behind us.
Another mile and we were in our 5th huge lock of the day. We got the lock ready and they followed in behind. There's a few drunk people about here, swigging out of cider cans, shouting stuff that we couldn't understand!
But we ignored them and carried on our journey.
John getting ready to hold on tight while the lock's emptied...
They make 'em wide around these parts....
Out the lock and a mile or so later we were at Crooke, a really pretty village built around the canal and surrounded by woodlands. We spotted a diesel boat moored up at the Crooke Hall Inn pub and pulled over to fill up with diesel. Only 80p per litre! Bargain!
Tied up next to barge Ambush, waiting to be filled up with diesel
John and Ed moored up at the pub, barge Ambush's permanent mooring just behind
Ed and John pulled over at the pub moorings, we continued under the bridge and found a lovely spot on the towpath. There were a couple of other boats there so it seemed an okay place to stop the night.
We pull in just around the corner, its a lovely little spot full of bird song
By now it was lunch time, we'd cruised 6 1/2 miles and done 5 locks in 5 hours, tough and slow going today!
We went off to explore the area and take Jack out for his walk over grassy meadows and through woodlands.
The Crooke Hall Inn, a great place to sit in the sun (when it's sunny!) and sip beer
We all deserved a treat so we called in at the Crooke Hall Inn and had a cool refreshing beer in the garden overlooking the canal. Jack enjoyed some refreshing canal water!
The only sounds to be heard in the evening were the beautiful bird songs coming from the woodland, loud and so varied. We chatted to our neighbours, Lindsey (yep, there's another!) and Mickey, and settled in for the evening.
We set off for our day's cruise through very pretty woodland
The next morning after a superb Jack walk we set off for our days cruise. It's about 10am and the sun's shining, it's a great day .... or so we thought.
We leave the lovely village of Crooke and the beautiful woodlands and 1 and a half miles on go under an enormous motorway bridge.
The tall towering M6 motor way bridge, under a rail track crosses the canal
Paul gets the lock ready and just as I push the boat away from the side I see Paul crouching down with Jack. Oh god, something's happened.
Quick as I can I get the boat in the lock and tie up.
Jacks been stung by a bumble bee. He's limping and licking and looking so sad. I've never seen his leg held up so high as this. He runs on three legs into the boat and with help is up on the settee in no time.
Panic... panic. Were miles from anywhere, no vets around.
At worst he could easily have an allergic reaction to the bee sting, at best I need to calm him down and try to help with the pain of the sting.
So after an antihistamine tablet, lots of cuddles and a bicarbonate of soda mix with water on it he's calmed down and seems a bit more settled. It's swelling up like a goodun, but he's stopped licking it so furiously now.
Looking back as we leave the lock under the busy motor way
After about 15 minutes he's not happy, but he's settled. We get ready to go down the lock and who should turn up but our friends Ed and John! So together we go down the lock, and out the huge gates at the bottom.
The countryside is so pretty, and the skies so blue
This swing bridge hasn't been used for a while so we pass straight through
We check on Jack every 10 mins or so, he's calm, settled and seems the antihistamine tablet has worked its magic! His paw is swelling up a bit, but he's stopped licking it now.
Paul opens the bridge so I can get the boat through and along comes John and Ed too
Well, that's what it says, they've got it all!
And we leave Greater Manchester for Lancashire now, the border being under this bridge
A couple of beautiful miles later through lovely countryside we get to the deep, deep Appley Bridge Locks. 
John and I wait for the lock to fill up so we can get the boats in, seems to be taking ages....
... and the gate paddles are tough... and the lock's massive!
This lock used to be two smaller locks, one after the other but is now one really deep and wide lock.
After what seemed an age waiting for the lock to fill up we both went in. And it seemed ages emptying too!
Bottom gates still remain of one of the two old locks, now there's just the one deep lock here
You can see how deep it is as John brings Memphis out of the lock behind me
We spotted this 'shed boat' floating on canoe like platforms, made from chests of drawers! The sign on the towpath side say 'give us a tow', and a little lad peeps out from the front! Strange sights hey!
I spotted this turtle basking out the water in the sunshine
Most of the bridges are so cute made up of the lancashire grey rock
We're now entering Parbold and the original course for the Leeds & Liverpool canal would have gone to our right, but they changed direction and had it going to Wigan instead, the way we've just come
Coming into Parbold with the old windmill on our left, now it's an art gallery and someone's home
Off we both went a couple more miles until we stopped at a lovely little village called Parbold. Nice 24hr visitor moorings we just squeezed in a gap just big enough.
We had a nice little mooring in Parbold, John and Ed up front of us
Memphis pulled up a couple of boats ahead of us and they managed to get in too.
These lads were out for a good time, doing a pub crawl on one of their dad's boat! He was the only sober one!
Jack's still feeling very sorry for himself but there's a vets 5 mins walk away in Parbold so were here just in case of any problems.
It's lovely and sunny, everyone seems happy and chatty, people just out enjoying the rare sunshine. The village has a few small shops, you can get most of what's needed here with a chemist, vets, pharmacy, bank, post office, mini supermarket, takeaway Chinese, fish n chips, diy shop and nice little gift shops.
Different view of the old windmill
The old windmill is now a picture gallery and somebody's home, there's a couple of pubs here too! It's even got a train station with trains running once an hour!
We find a lovely walk to the top of a hill! Rest a while old man!
Off on our explore with Jack we don't take him far. He's still limping but very keen to go out for his walk. He still finds the willpower and energy to chase rabbits tho!
We enjoy a quiet and peaceful night here and wake up on Sunday to beautiful sunshine, not meant to last longer than lunchtime tho!
We see the hills in the distance, looks lovely!
Stopping the traffic is fun, but I think these cyclists enjoyed the rest...
We set off about 10am, heading the 4 miles to Burscough. 
This was to be our next canal, but we couldn't get a booking to go over the Ribble Link, so not this year.
We go through a couple of key operated swing bridges and after 3 miles we get to the Rufford Branch of the Leeds & Liverpool. This eventually takes you to the Lancaster Canal via the Ribble Link, a tidal stretch of river you have to book in advance.

... and there's another, spelt differently and wider, but still enjoying their life, I'm sure!
Burscough is a really old canal town, these converted buildings were used to stable the horses that worked the canals, now modernised and a lovely attraction to the town
After another mile we arrive at the busy town of Burscough. There's lots of moored boats here and lots of people walking the towpath in the sunshine.
We pull over and go for a wander in the town and when we get back to the boat Memphis has turned up behind us and is mooring up.
Leaving Burscough we wave bye to John and Ed once again, but they will catch us up later...
After a chat to them we get on our way again and head out of Burscough.
The surrounding fields are flat like the fens, ploughed up and planted with vegetables, it's still sunny and warm and we chug along through the wide but twisty canal.
The surrounding farmland is now used to grow vegetables, reminds us a lot of the fenlands in East Anglia
Gongoozlers watch on as Paul opens the bridge and I take the boat through
There's two swing bridges to get through, both key operated and both by busy pubs with lots of people sitting outside drinking.
We get to Heatons Bridge and moor up opposite the 48 hr moorings...
A couple of miles on and we get to Heatons Bridge, there's 48 hr moorings here but we can't get the boat in because of hidden rocks under the water. So we go over to the towpath side and hammer our pins in and stop for the day.

Jack enjoys his explore in Heatons Bridge, although there's not much here!
It's been a gorgeous day's cruise but it's clouding up now so we go off to explore further up the towpath and in the woods.
When we get back Memphis has turned up and moored in front of us, they go for a pint at the pub and we chill out for the rest of the day.
... And there's another Happy Dayz, spelt differently again! 
On Monday 2nd June it's raining when we get up. After walking Jack we set off  towards Liverpool, not long now. It's raining on and off today, brollys are up and down, coats on and off!
This piece of canal is actually where the first shovel of dirt was dug out when the canal was built
Another disused swing bridge..... vegetation has taken over!
We cruise on through open countryside, the canal banks supported by rocky sides, all sloping inwards so you can't get near the edge when you want to moor up.
Waiting by Coxheads Swingbridge for the work force from C&RT to come and let us through
After nearly 6 miles we get to Coxheads Swingbridge, there's a boat waiting but the lady, Annie, from the boat Dream Catcher, is on her way down the towpath to us.
Annie had already phoned up to get help...
Turns out the bridge is broken, she's called C&RT and they're on their way out to let us through. So we put the kettle on, more boats turned up, all waiting to be let through the bridge.
We all waited by the bridge to be let through
In total 7 boats were waiting, by 12 noon the C&RT workers had turned up, pressed a few buttons and the bridge opened.
Happy men give us a cheery wave as we pass through the swing bridge
All of us went through, we moored up the other side of the bridge, all the other boats went on down the canal, including our friends on Memphis. 
This footpath was totally impassable, we couldn't get through here!
We had lunch and took Jack for his walk, not a very good one, the footpaths were virtually impassable and so overgrown we had to turn back and walk the towpath.
Moored up for the night, we were just the other side of the Coxheads swing bridge
It was really quiet and peaceful, no noise, just us moored out in the middle of nowhere.
Paul fished and caught lots of slimey eels, Jack and I stayed in and dried off.
Tuesday was a grey, dull and drizzley day. We had to be at our allocated bridge to be escorted through Liverpool with other boats in a convoy and so had no choice but move today.
We made our way through a few swing bridges...
Paul walked Jack the couple of miles to Maghull, our Morrisons stop to stock up the cupboards. He opened a couple of swing bridges on his way and we pulled over just before bridge 14.
Moored up near Morrisons, just a 5 minute walk from here
Morrisons was a 5 minute walk away so we were soon done and back on the boat.
We had a couple more swingbridges to get through and we were soon out in the countryside, flat and open, windy and cold.
Our view for the night, Holmes Swingbridge where we all congregated ready for the off tomorrow...
Just before bridge 10, Holmes Swingbridge, we pulled over in amongst a row of boats, all going to Liverpool in the same convoy. Memphis and Dream Catcher were just behind us too, so we all chatted for a while.
All the boats booked in for Liverpool tomorrow wait by Bridge 10, ready to move early in the morning
Annie, Paul and I went walking with Jack and Annie's dog, Tara, over the long grassy fields. We drunk coffee and ate flapjacks when we got back!
After tea we settled down to an early night. We had to be up early for our escorted cruise down to Liverpool Docks.
Wednesday 4th June. Alarm goes off 6am, I get up and walk Jack while Paul gets the boat ready and prepares for the off.
We set off early in our convoy, going through Bridge 10 and onwards to our meeting spot at Bridge 9
By 7.30 engines were on and the first boat had gone through the bridge, we were third to go through, there were 5 boats behind us. We went the mile or so to Bridge 9, our 9 am meeting point with C&RT.


At our meeting point with C&RT, waiting for the signal to start engines....
We were all lined up and waiting to go, coffee, tea and various other refreshments on the back, the bridge was opened up for us and we were all ushered through.
.... and we're off, we're third in a convoy of 8 narrow boats
We all get ushered through Bridge 9 while the guys from C&RT operate the bridge
In our 8 boat convoy we cruised onwards towards Aintree. At the next swing bridge a couple of miles on the C&RT men were there waiting to open the bridge for us.
They don't look particularly happy in their work!
Through we all went...
Boats follow behind us....
Past Aintree racecourse we went although you couldn't see much behind the trees. The canal is reedy, lily pads on the edges, rubbish lurking under the water. There's all sorts here, fridges, tellys, old computers, road signs and plastic bags galore!
And there's rubbish just chucked in the canal like a rubbish dump...
... but this rubbish polystyrene offers a resting place to mum duck and babes
The bridges are old but pretty, reeds and lily pads creep away from the sides of the canal towards the centre
A few miles on we went through Litherland and then on to Bootle. Here the rubbish gets even worse, graffiti on most walls, razor barbed wire on top of walls.
We're told stopping is not permitted anywhere on the stretch between Bridge 9 and Liverpool, you can see why
It's a grey day, and not a pleasant area
We did well, only got bunged up with rubbish on the prop a couple of times and managed to put it in reverse to clear most of it off.
Narrow Boat Memphis follows on from behind, this old bridge used to be lovely but now graffiti spoils it
Rough area of Liverpool here, but it does get better...
We make our way under the bridge to the modern building and past the old wall, what a contrast
It was 10 miles to the 4 Stanley Locks in Liverpool. 
Arriving at the turn off to Stanley Locks, the C&RT guys will be waiting for us to let us through the locks
We all turn up one by one and wait to be let down the locks
When we arrived at the locks I went down the weed hatch and cleared the rest of the bags and rubbish off, poo bags and heavy polythene, thick curtain tape too?
We all arrived one at a time, most people's first job was to clear rubbish off their prop!
Edna watches on as we leave the first of the 4 Stanley Locks in Liverpool
The first two boats went down the first of the 4 huge deep locks, C&RT workers escorting them down, then it was our turn.
We went in with another boat, Blue Grass. Paul helped at the locks, Jack came out to stretch his legs and have a wee!
Down we went till we got to the bottom, and we were in Stanley Dock.
'Put some effort in it lads' These gates are mighty tough to open and close
We get down the bottom of the locks and into Stanley Docks
The enormous tobacco warehouse to our left and the Tate & Lyle sugar warehouse is on our right...
The docks here are really old, used to be used for big ships, this one would have been for the shipping of sugar and tobacco.
The Tate & Lyle sugar warehouse still stands to our right, and to the left is the Tobacco Warehouse, a listed derelict building, apparently the biggest brick building in the world!
This tobacco warehouse is the largest brick built construction in the world, apparently, now a listed building

Built in 1900, it still stands tall and strong, but the ceilings inside are only 7' high, and thats not high enough for ceilings in residential buildings, an impossible job to change

In front of us is the clock tower with 6 sides so wherever you were on the river or in the docks you could see the time. We turned left by the clock tower into Collingwood Dock.
This ancient clock tower uses to tell the correct time, now its a historical monument
Turning left into Sid's Ditch we proceed onwards through the docks of Liverpool
Going along Sid's Ditch its pretty shallow here...
We weaved our way through several wide open docklands, there was Collingwood Dock first, through into Salisbury Dock, then we turned left into Sid's Ditch and through into the Central Docks channel.
...next we entered the Central Docks Channel
We went through Princes Dock and we came to Princes Dock Lock.
Going through Princes Dock....
... and onwards to Princes Dock Lock
From here on the Liverpool Canal Link is brand new, only opened to narrow boats from the canal since 2009 at a cost of £22 million!
We had to hover about in the open windy docklands before we could get into the lock
We wait at the lock hovering about in the wide water, there's no landing stage here so we can't pull over and tie our boat up!
The Liver Buildings in front, we wait till we can get into the lock...
... and finally we're in, on our way once again
The lock is being set by the two boats in front of us, so we get in as the gates open and go down the three foot, and after we leave the lock we set it for the following two boats.
Out of the lock, and into the first of three low bridge tunnels...
... and we're still following Blue Grass into the next bridge tunnel...
... and past these amazing buildings!
Under another tunnel, under the horse statue...
Straight away there's a tunnel, then another and then another, we go past the Royal Liver Building, Liverpool museum and the Port of Liverpool Building.
... and under the Museum of Liverpool, another tunnel
We go past the Port of Liverpool buildings

And onwards under the last road bridge tunnel
At the next lock, another new one called Mann Island Lock, we are seen through by the C&RT guys. 
We wait for the two boats in front to go down the small lock and then its our turn
It's only a foot drop into Canning Dock, wide and back in the old stuff again now!
We get into Canning Dock, and have to turn right out of the lock, ahead is a floating bar
We leave the lock and full steam ahead in the deep, clear water. 
Big ships moored up against the dock wall, nb Memphis in front leading the way
The old markings on the wall of Canning Half Tide lock, all in roman numerals show the level of the water
Turning right out of the lock we cruise through Canning Dock, turn right into Canning Half Tide Dock and left into Albert Dock.
We have to turn left into Albert Dock going under this low bridge, the Tate Liverpool in front of us
Cruising through Albert Dock we have to now turn left to get to Salthouse Dock
Going under the bridge to Salthouse Dock
We go straight to our allocated pontoon and tie the boat up.... were here, made it, finally in Liverpool! 
And we're finally in Salthouse Dock, making our way to our allocated mooring, pontoon no. S2
And here we are! At last! tied up and settled into our spot for the next 3 days! Yippee!
It was 2.30pm, we'd been cruising since 7.30am, were tired out and hungry; we breathed a massive sigh of relief!
There's a lot of boats here, but in my humble opinion our boat looks the prettiest!
It's really nice here, water and electric on most pontoons, daily rubbish collection too! There's lots of other boats here, and the other boats from our convoy all turn up two by two.
Were booked in here until Saturday 7th June. We have to leave at 9am, on the dot, so for the next few days we go off and explore Liverpool.
Jack's wearing his posh harness, it's supposed to stop him pulling on the lead but makes no difference!
The Liver buildings and the Port of Liverpool buildings.... this is our daily walk for Jack, along way from his familiar fields and woodlands he normally runs around in! But he takes it all in his stride and has fun anyway!
Choppy River Mersey, and thats the 'Ferry Across The Mersey'
Liverpool Pier Head, where all the big ships and ferries leave from
Dog walks are mainly on the promenade of the River Mersey, humungous river, choppy and wide with big ships, transport ferries going over to Ireland and daily ferries across the river. 
It's busy here, there's lots of tourists about, plenty of free museums and ice cream vans on every corner. 
There were quite a few of these about, and at £3.50 for a '99' we only sampled the one!
Jack enjoys an early morning stroll along the promenade of the River Mersey
Finally the sun comes out and we play ball on the paved areas...
This has been Jack's 'bit of grass' we've found, small but perfect!
Jacks happy with a ball and a stroll along the promenade, we find a small patch of grass for him to play on.
We go exploring the amazing shopping centres and cosmopolitan cafés, we venture into the Slavery Museum and the Maritime museum, the Tate gallery, the docks and more shops.
This is not a pile of blankets in a shop on on the boat, it's actually an exhibit in the Tate Liverpool!!
... and so is this old bundle of wire and rubbish! Ha! So glad we didn't pay to go in!
An old bit of cloth, or an exhibit in the Tate Liverpool?
We went in the free museums here, the Slavery Museum and the Maritime Museum... 
John and Edna on their beautiful boat, Memphis relaxing in the dock
We chat with our neighbours, have coffee with Edna and John and go off into China Town for a slap up Chinese meal.
The entrance to China Town, the only impressive bit about it!
... but we enjoyed a slap up feast from one of the chinese restaurants there
It's really windy here most of the time, rain comes and goes and the sun even makes an appearance occasionally.
Blue skys at last, makes the port look beautiful...
... and the jelly fish all come to the surface for some warm rays too!
These two bask in the warm shallow waters of the dock
... and even the River Mersey is calmer today, looks almost nice!
Jack shelters under this statue in the shade, he's not used to the sun shining!
The sign for Albert Dock, just in case you'd forgotten where you were!
It's lovely and clean, no roudy drunks and despite roadworks going on just near the moored boats it's pretty quiet.
.... p.s. and they even had purple and pink wheelie bins in Liverpool!
                       
We've enjoyed our stay here but three days in the city is enough for us country bumpkins, we prefer the open countryside with only bird song for company.
By Saturday we're ready to leave. We've done all we want to do and get the boat ready for our trip back through Liverpool and onwards to Leeds, our next destination.
It's the longest canal in Britian built by a single company at 128 miles long with 91 deep wide locks.
We have to go back to Wigan where we'll continue past the junction with the Leigh branch and onwards through Blackburn, Burnley, then Skipton and to Leeds.

Watch this space for the next instalment .....

Last updated 17th June 2014













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