The Leeds & Liverpool Canal from Wigan to Skipton 19.6.14

Leeds & Liverpool Canal

Wigan to Skipton 19.6.14

We're leaving here on Thursday 19th June on our way to Chorley where we're going to have to go shopping and find a laundrette. But until then were relaxing and enjoying the peace and quiet and glorious sunshine and the amazing woodlands and fields around us ....

The sun sets over the canal on our last night in beautiful Apley Woods

As planned, and that doesn't happen too often, we set off on Thursday morning. We've got a lot to do today and need an early start.

Leaving our little spot...

After our last walk in Apley woods we start the engine up and were off before 8am. Love these early starts, the mornings are usually so bright and quiet.... today it's dull and grey though.

We've left Greater Manchester now, into Lancashire

It's a slow 4 miles to Chorley, there's at least a mile of moored boats at The White Bear Marina in Adlington where we have to go past on tick over. 

Lines of moored boats at White Bear Marina

There's lots of wooded parts and road bridges to go under but we get to Chorley by 9.30am.

We moor up just in front of the boats here, our nearest route to Morrisons and the launderette

We pulled over by the slipway in front of a couple of scruffy looking boats. On our way with trolley and rucksack we head off to Morrisons, it's a good mile walk but it's worth it for a full fridge once again!

Next we get our washing together and with more trolleys and bags head off to The Wash Bowl, a super clean, cheap, friendly and brilliant laundrette run by a lady called Ruth. My face ached with laughing so much when I left there!

Back at the boat laiden with clean washing we set off again, it was noisy and by a main road there and we like it quiet and solitary.

Under the busy road bridge we go.... 

.... very different to the cute Leeds & Liverpool bridges we've been used to

We only went a couple more miles, there was a flight of 7 locks coming up and we got to the bottom lock and found a nice little spot to moor the boat.

 

We pull over by these lovely posh riverside houses

Moored up now, this is our view from the boat, the lock on the right and an old canal arm on the left

It was quiet, quite a posh area really with big three story houses backing onto the canal. In the distance we can hear the M61 motorway, but it's not intrusive at all. There's a few dog walkers, most stop and say hi!

Seems like they're not repairing the locks here, this has a notice on it since April 2010!

Friday 20th June and it's a chilly damp start to the day. After our walk with Jack we set off for the first of the 7 Johnson Hill locks.

Waiting in the open lock for this boat to join us... it's a lot easier with two!

We did the first one alone, slowly, as the water rushed in and I held the boat with the rope. As we were leaving the lock another boat pulled up and we decided to wait for them in the second lock. It was so much easier after that. 

Entering the lock side by side, no need for ropes then

Paul puts all his strength into opening up the ground paddles... while the lady looks on!

Think you can still use your boat tho, all the 'no' signs on this post made me check! 

We cruised up the remaining 6 locks going in side by side, Paul and two crew from the other boat setting the locks ahead of us.

All filled up with water... we're soon on our way from Top Lock

We soon made it to the top lock, it was still only 11am, it had only taken an hour and a half! We waved goodbye, thanks all around and we pulled over for a rubbish dump and fill up with water.

Paul keeps a watch out for places deep enough to pull the boat in... with not much luck

We went on a couple of miles continually looking for somewhere to stop. Each time we found a place that we liked the banks were too shallow and we couldn't get the boat in! So we went on to bridge 88 at Withnell Fold 48hr moorings and tied the boat up.

A nice enough mooring... and the gardener's been to mow the lawn! 

The sun was shining now and it was a nice sunny grassy spot, this'll be fine! After lunch we went for our daily explore. We found a great walk with amazing views and ended up in the small village of Withnell Fold.

This carving outside the village school was brilliant, carved from an old tree stump still firmly in the ground

Hmmm... where's those wet sponges when you need one!

It was lovely, cute houses in little rows, cobbled streets and even a pair of stocks that Paul climbed in to pose for a picture!

Part of the old paper mill in the village, by the canal

Now redeveloped and used as business units

It was a real community village, dominated by the old paper mill down by the canal, now small industrial units, the tall chimney still remains.

It was a nice quiet mooring spot outside the old mill

We felt safe here, and had a lovely afternoon sitting out in the sunshine and a lovely quiet night too!

On Saturday we planned not to go far. We were saving Blackburn for Monday (hopefully the youth rebels that are known to hang about and cause trouble at the locks would be at school) and we only had a few miles to go to get there.

Walking the countryside in the glorious sunshine...

So after another different, but lovely, walk in the beautiful sunshine exploring the meadows and hills we set off for the couple of miles to Riley Green.

Leaving a bridge on our way to Riley Green

We had been advised not to go any further towards Blackburn than Riley Green so we took advise and just cruised the half an hour through lovely wooded and hilly landscape.

Our spot in Riley Green, waiting for the weekend to go so we could get through Blackburn

We pulled over at the ringed 48 hr moorings and sat out in the sunshine. During the day we got on with some jobs that needed doing, odd bits of painting, servicing the fold up bikes and some sanding.

This beautiful meadow and river was such a surprise as we turned a corner....

We found an amazing walk in the afternoon, purely by chance. We ended up walking to a lovely river valley, open fields and fantastic woods.

There were lovely paths in the woods ...

Jack had the time of his life splashing about in the shallow river and chasing 'impossible to get' bunnies!

And Jack had great fun splashing about in the shallow river (look at his ears!)

We were gone a couple of hours and were all tired by the time we got home!

We chilled out in the sunshine with cold fizzy elderflower cordial, watching the world go by! We stayed here Sunday too, did a bit more painting and a few jobs around the boat. 

We had some new neighbours too, a nb called Alma 'P' turned up and asked if we were going through Blackburn tomorrow and could they come with us up the locks! Result! We'd arranged to leave early the next day, by 7am, and that seemed to suit us both. We sat out in the sunshine till it was no longer. 

Leaving early o'clock to get through Blackburn....

Paul and Jack walked the towpath while I cruised the boat...

Monday 23rd June we both set off as planned by 7am. Paul walked the towpath with Jack and I took the boat.

It was a beautiful day as we glided almost silently passed moored boats in the early morning sunshine but the calm silent canal held dark secrets lurking below the surface!

Some of the houses were pretty rough...

We cruised on the 4 1/2 miles to Blackburn, scum laid on the top of the water and all sorts of rubbish underneath the surface. 

We cruised past Blackburn Rovers Football Ground

We were constantly in reverse trying to free the prop of plastic bags caught up, bottles and polystyrene a favorite here in Blackburn.

All around the houses are big and well looked after, gardens are immaculate and are coming right down onto the canal.

Some of the houses were really nice leading right down to the canal

The views going through Blackburn were pretty awsome, the canal is higher than the houses

We had to wait at the bottom lock, we only had 6 to do but it was good going up with another boat.

Here's a great welcome to the Blackburn locks! A sign of things to come!

Our only drawback was that Liz and Peter were two of the most miserable grumpy people we've ever met! He was a male shouvanist pig and thought he knew everything and she was your worst nightmare bossy school teacher type!

Alma 'P' leaving the lock behind

We went up the first couple of locks then Alma 'P' pulled in to get water while Paul set the next lock and we waited for them to finish watering up. They weren't long though and we were soon on our way again up the next 4 locks. 

We've never seen this sort of winding mechanism before! There's no room for an arm on this gate!

The locks were all huge and leaky and the gates were heavy and huge.

Looking over Blackburn as we leave the locks

We went on another 3 miles out of Blackburn, through the rubbish filled canal and out into the countryside once again, plenty of ramblers enjoying the beautiful views all around us.

A different sort of lily pad grows here, one that sprouts bottles!

A childs toy floats about in the scum and muck of the canal

Ramblers watch as we cruise under this bridge at Rishton Resevoir

We got clogged up a few times, had to stop and clear the prop from tangled plastic bags, string and polythene. 

We cruise on a few miles with wonderful views on our way to Nordon

Past Rishton Resevoir we went and into scruffy Nordon. 

The old Imperial Tobacco Warehouse... still stands

Derelict buildings and disused factories and warehouses now dominated the surroundings with even more rubbish in the canal.

It's really pretty in parts...

... and an effort had been made once to make the towpath nice, but with no upkeep, what else do you expect...

Church sounds such a lovely place... till you get there and see the razor wire above all the walls

We cruised on out of Nordon and towards Church, also a run down area. 

The warning signs tell that give you instructions if a siren sounds

Warning signs told us of a chemical factory up ahead telling us to get inside the boat, shut all windows and doors and stay there if a siren was sounding! But we had no problems and carried on back into the countryside once again.

Beautiful blue skies and open hilly landscape once again

We still had the very busy M65 running alongside us, has been since Blackburn. We went on through swingbridge 113 and there was a 'donk' under the boat and after getting down the weed hatch once again discovered a branch wrapped around the prop.

Swingbridge 113... where the branch got caught round the prop... but worse was to come

Once we cleared that we went through Clayton le Moors and came up to another swingbridge, bridge no. 114. I pulled over to let Paul and Jack off the boat and suddenly the engine stopped and the warning buzzer came on.

Meanwhile Paul had opened the bridge and I was stuck in the middle of the canal with no engine! So I drifted with the wind to the side, half in the swingbridge hole half out, Paul pushing the bridge away from the boat so as not to lump into it, and I hopped off and dragged the boat through the bridge hole and onto the bridge moorings. 

The culprit to the engine stopping, a plastic hessian sack and more polythene

Another visit down the weed hatch and we found a huge hessian type sack wound round the prop, the sort they use to deliver sand and shingle to homes. After battling with that we eventually got it off, started the engine and we were off again.

Beautiful views all around us...

Were once again out in the open countryside with lovely views all around us of rolling hills and grassy meadows. It was stunning, dry stone walls separate fields of grazing cattle and sheep all around with views over miles and miles of hills. We went through another swingbridge and pulled over at a beautiful spot high up on the hills. It had been recommended to us to stop there, well worth the long days cruise, it was wonderful!

.... a line of boats in the distance, ours is in front. This was a wonderful place to stop with great views

Our view from the front...

There was only one other boat here when we got here, but soon it filled up with several others including Alma 'P'!

And another view from the boat! Its not really doing it justice tho, you could see for miles!

Paul caught the slimiest most disgusting fish I've ever seen, the best come wrapped in batter! He was happy tho!

The walks were lovely, we found a lovely pond Jack could cool off in, fields he could run and run in. The sun was still hot when we got back to the boat so we sat out on the towpath till the sun went down enjoying the lovely sunset.

The whole sky lit up with vapour trails all over criss-crossing above us

We had a good nights sleep here and were up early for Jack's walk before we set off again. 

We've seen the bottle lily pads, now here's the shoe tree! What goes on here out in the countryside we don't know.

Liz and Peter wanted to come along with us through the locks once again so by 9am we both left for our trip through Burnley.

It's still beautiful countryside but the motorway is still right beside us.

We grinned at the intellectual graffiti on the motor way bridge here!

We go on through Hapton and into the outskirts of Burnley. 

More rubbish everywhere...

There's plenty of scum on the canal here, could be blue green algae as the signs suggests

There's plenty of rubbish around again, small 2up-2down rows of old terraced houses all around us perched high up on the hillside.

We have to reverse spin the prop several times to clear rubbish off the prop but soon we enter Gannow Tunnel, a wet but short tunnel.

The entrance to Gannow Tunnel, on a bend!

Entering Burnley... old and derelict buildings with the original tall chimneys still in tact

Quite interesting, not wonderful but no trouble at all

The canal twists and turns a lot now going round the hills and valleys of the Pennines and we go over the mile long embankment out of Burnley with great views over the town and roof tops.

Chimney pots and roof tops... our view from the mile long embankment as we leave Burnley

.... and rows and rows of 2up-2down terraced houses built originally for the large factory workers

We cruise on into countryside once again, Paul and Jack hop off for a leg stretch.

Paul and Jack walk along the towpath for a leg stretch

Entering Nelson it changes once again to a built up town, razor wire above walls and more rubbish in the canal. There's a Morrisons we've been told about and we need supplies so we pull into the moorings (a small concrete ledge) and tie up.

Alma 'P' moors up alongside us as there's no other space

There's a locked gate only accessible to boaters as you need an anti vandal key to get in and out, so Paul goes off to shop and I stay with the boat. Alma 'P' comes alongside us as it's full up and ties up and they both go off to shop. All day it's been grey and cloudy but eventually the rain comes, so after shopping we stay and have lunch and sit the rain out.

The rain eased off and we both set off for the mile cruise to the 7 Barrowford Locks.

Entering the bottom lock, only 6 more to go! They're leaky as you can see from the water coming in at the top end!

The locks were all set against us so we set too and steadily went up the huge leaky locks. They were stiff to open, some of the ground paddles weren't working so the gate paddles had to be used causing a huge gush of water over the front of the boats. 

One of the pounds was very low but we just about managed to get through.

Lock keeper on hand as we reach the last of the 7 locks

At the last lock there was a lock keeper who emptied the lock for us to go in, and as we steadily went up the flight it just got more and more beautiful! We were away from the towns now, hills and fields all around us, more dry stone walls and sheep and cattle grazing right up to the edge of the locks!

View looking down the flight of locks, and the reservoir that feeds the canal from the top

We pulled over at the moorings at the top of the lock flight, plenty of space with rings and bollards to tie up to. We'd had a long day again, it was nearly 5pm, now we can relax! 

Were away from the hoodlums and drunkards of the towns and cities and just have the sheep and birds as neighbours! We'd even managed to moor up away from Liz and Peter!

Looking up towards the moored boats, the last lock in view 

We wandered the locks and fields around with Jack and settled in for the evening.

Wednesday 25th of June and we set off again after a lovely walk over the fields with Jack. We didn't leave till 12 as I did a load of hand washing and hung it out in the front deck. We set off for the Foulridge Tunnel, a couple of beautiful miles later and there's a hold up.

This C&RT work boat is taking up most of the moorings...
so I hang about in the narrow channel hoping nothings coming our way!

Boats hovering about in the canal, all waiting for the traffic lights of the tunnel to turn green. We float about, nowhere to tie up against the side as a huge C&RT work boat is taking up most of the tunnel mooring!

The lights change to green and the convoy of boats slowly make their way through the tunnel

We can only go through on the half hour, so when the lights changed a convoy of boats went through and we followed. It was a mile long, another wet one so we both hid under the brolley as we went further into the tunnel.

It's bright and sunny as we leave the other end of the tunnel...

.... and its gone all touristy now, bistro cafe's and trip boats about

Out the other side and everything changed! It's gone all touristy here, there's boat trips and a lovely traditional cafe/resteraunt selling home made everything. It was very busy, people everywhere. We pulled over to the nearby sanitary station and filled up with water and dumped our rubbish.

The very pretty Sanitary Station at Foulridge, all built in Yorkshire stone

Soon we were off again looking for a nice place to stop away from the hoards of sight seers. 

We'd crossed the county border, now we were really in Yorkshire, the sign says so!

We cruised on a mile or so trying to get in near the bank only to find it was too shallow to get anywhere near.

We found somewhere we could get in, but it was right on a bend by a bridge, not the best place!

Eventually we managed to get in just before bridge 150, but it wasn't a good place. We were on the bottom, right by a bridge on a bend. The trip boat came past a few times and as it was a wide beam it struggled to see around the bend under the bridge as we were obstructing the view! 

But we went out to explore the area, we had an amazing time in the fields, following the footpaths over rocky styles and through fields of sheep, past old farm buildings and through woods and meadows. We loved it, so did Jack!

One of the many different styles, sheep resistant, to get through along our walk

We spotted this alpaca in a field in amongst a load of sheep

Paul breathes in to get through the gap in the wall, a public right of way, if you don't like pies!

Looking down towards the canal

These signs all along the canal show what's left to do to get to Leeds... always ending in 1/4!

We went back to the boat, it was 4.20 pm and we decided to move and find somewhere better. We didn't have much luck though, we tried several times and it was either too shallow or not a nice place to be! There was a couple of 48hr moorings but they were either full with boats or anglers!

Looking for somewhere to stop for the night, it's still very pretty here

So reluctantly we went through Barnoldswick and on to the top of the three locks at Greenberfields, still continually looking but not able to get in.

We had no choice but to go down the locks, signs above the locks said max mooring 1 hour!

Only thing was to go down the locks, that was the summit of the canal done, 6 miles, and now we were going down.

One of the lever ground paddles on this section, the first time we've seen these!

So after trying to get in the side one more time we went down the 3 Greenberfield locks and soon we were at the bottom. There were some permanent moorings requiring permits to moor there, empty all bar one boat, it was late now, 6.30pm, and we'd had enough, so we pulled over and tied up anyway! We had a very peaceful night with beautiful views again!

Moored up on the permanent moorings for permit holders only, but we needed to stop!

The morning of Thursday 26th June was grey and miserable. Paul and Jack walk the towpath a few miles and I take the boat along the twists and turns of the canal.

I follow this slow boat around the bends and twists of the canal as it weaves its way along the hillsid

All along here the canal goes around the hills, lots of tight bends and great views of the Yorkshire dales around every corner, through every gap in the trees.

This bridge looks like any other bridge along this canal...

... but when you get closer you can see it's a unique double arched bridge... the main road runs across at the top

We only go for three miles and are heading for 'the bends', a place that's been recommended to us as a lovely place to stop with nothing and no one about. 

It's a beautiful cutting in the rocks, trees surround us and we're on our way to 'the bends'

We head through the village of East Morton and about a mile out the other side, round twisty hairpin bends doubling back on our selves, this is where we stop.

We're moored up in a beautiful spot, in amongst hairpin bends, green hills and dippy green valleys

And boy were they right! It was lovely! Were up on a hill looking down on meadows and fields with only the sheep and cattle opposite for company. 

One of many of our views

Beautiful mossy stone walls, slightly falling down but all the same appealing!

Dry stone walls, hills as far as the eye can see and public footpaths weave in and out all around us, the Pennine walkway is over on the far field and it seems every field has a walk through it! 

Waiting at the gate to get in... 

We had to work out every style so Jack could get through, but by the end he'd worked it out himself!

Footpaths criss-cross over the middle of wide open fields...

'Come on mum and dad, I'm tired out!' says Jack (if he could speak) after a very long walk

This roller used to be used by the horses pulling the barges to help them get round the hairpin bends...
the horse would walk on and the rope would roll around the corner pulling the barge

It's so lovely we decide to stay here a few days. The weather isn't the best, it's grey, cold, windy and wet, showers and drizzle mainly with split second odd bursts of something resembling the sunshine.

But it's so peaceful, not a single sound at night and by day we've got the sheep and birds for company!

We get on with a few jobs around the boat, indoor jobs mostly as outside its cold and damp; but were loving it.....

Sad to leave such a beautiful place but excited about what's around the next corner...

By Sunday we were getting itchy feet again, we weren't able to do any outside painting so we decided to cruise on a bit further instead.

Paul and Jack walked the towpath and I took the boat round some more hairpin bends and tricky corners the one mile to the next flight of locks, the Bank Newton 6.

Jack has a good sniff about in the hedgerow as we reach Bank Newton Locks

The first two locks were pretty good, new gates and paddles meant they didn't leak and weren't too stiff to open

The first couple of locks were new ones, worked a treat. The next 4 were old and in need of urgent repair. 

The next 4 locks were old and rickety, leaked like a sieve, and were stiff as an old brush!

They were all set against us but we slowly went through all six, even getting help from a lock keeper for the last couple as he went ahead and filled them and opened the top gates.

This 'grumpy' lock keeper relaxes while we slowly go down the lock, he never smiled once!

At the bottom of the locks we pull in to get water and find a widebeam hire boat moored on the water point! Thank goodness our hose is just long enough to go down the length of their boat and fit in our water tank! It turns out their prop 'fell off' as they entered the last lock and were waiting for a replacement hire boat to turn up! Poor them!

More boats pulled up to use the water point and had to wait around as the wide beam couldn't move out the way

We soon finished filling up (later we discovered Paul had left the BWB key at the water point, leaving us hunting desperately for our spare) and were on our way to the first of the Gargrave locks, full and ready for us. 

The view between locks!

A boat leaves the lock just as we get to it! What a lovely sight!

Same with the next two, couldn't have gone better as we arrived boats were leaving the lock full and the gates open for us!

Moored up at Gargrave, a pretty village

We were soon at the Gargrave 72hr moorings, gardens backed on to the towpath but it was pretty and quiet. We moored up and went to explore the quaint stone walled village, the little tea rooms and home made cake cafés, but more importantly the local establishment where we could get a big fat Sunday lunch!

We found this lovely old pub....

... and got ourselves a plate full of roast beef with all the trimmings - well it was Sunday after all!

We found a lovely pub called the Masons Arms where we had a huge plate full of roast beef with all the trimmings. Jack came with us and enjoyed some too! People wandered the towpath chatting in the sunshine, tourists and walkers alike.

We got to the top....

.... and Paul rests his weary old mans legs!

And under the shade of this tree somewhere there's a little black and white dog... knackered!

We went off for our walk over the grassy meadows and hilly fields, along the Pennine way, through woodlands. We were gone a couple of hours, it was a great walk!

It's been trying to rain all afternoon and all except for a few spots here and there, it's not succeeded!

Looking towards the lock from our mooring spot in Gargrave

Tuesday the sun came out at last! We sat out on the towpath in the heat of the sunshine chatting to passers by, went for two lovely walks out in the fields, exploring different walkways and hills. We wandered around the little town of Gargrave, did a bit of shopping in the local Coop and sat and chilled in the sunshine some more.

We're now on our way to Skipton, next it's Leeds!

On Wednesday we move off early and stop a couple of locks down to give Jack a new walk over the hills.

Stunning scenery all around us....

... we don't know which direction to look! This is where we took Jack for his 'stop off' walk!

After our Jack walk we set off again, straight into a full and ready lock.

Waiting to pick up Paul after he's opened up this bridge for me

We then get through three manually operated swingbridges, the last one, Niffany Swingbridge, was fairly tough. Two massive widebeam boats came through after me, one catching his fender on the bridge ... could have been nasty but Paul was on to it, pushed the boat off and they were away.

This wide beam goes through the bridge, narrowly missing a minor disaster as he gets caught up...

Paul pushes with all his might, the bridge is a tough one to put back in place

But we've made it to Skipton, half a mile on from the last of the swingbridges we'd reached our destination.

We pulled over behind a row of moored boats and tied up on the armaco. There was loads of room, already about six boats were moored up in front, many more in the town. 

Its busy here, boats come and go all day long

We were in quite a built up area, but surprisingly it wasn't noisy! We couldn't hear the train or the road very much, the towpath was fairly busy but it was grassy and Jack had somewhere to sit out.

Rows and rows of terraced houses made up most of Skipton...

We stopped here for a few days. We had discovered that the Tour de France cycle race was to be coming through Skipton at the weekend and we had decided to join in the celebrations. 

There was yellow bunting up everywhere, this is the main shopping centre in Skipton, nothing like normal!

Pubs and cafe's fly the flag for Britain, and the yellow bunting for the Tour de France

The whole town had gone bike mad! There were painted yellow bikes everywhere, bunting fluttering high up filling the town with yellow and polka dots, shop windows displayed bikes of all shapes and sizes. Even the church hung a huge great yellow tee shirt from high on the tower.

Looking over the hills towards Skipton, the church tower stands out with the yellow t-shirt proudly hanging

The town was buzzing with people, mostly locals all very excited about the weekend, but gradually it would be filled to bursting point by Saturday. It was a pretty town with quirky shops. 

We had the best pies we'd ever eaten here, leaving out the mash we just had the pie and peas

We ate pie and mash at the local 'pie and mash' shop, there were delightful delicatesians, lovely tearooms and bistros, gift shops galore and ice creams from a boat!

We went walking in the Castle Woods...

The huge and beautiful Aireville Parklands where we played ball with Jack

There's plenty of walks around here for Jack, we go walking in the Castle Woods, play ball in the huge Aireville Parklands, we find sheep and cattle fields with public footpaths in abundance.

Jack with his prize catch! Hope the farmer never saw him!

One little problem, we found out, was as it's Paul's birthday on Saturday 5th July and the town is heaving, most pubs and resteraunts are not taking bookings for food. But we've found a Thai restaurant that is cooking, on the outskirts of town, so we've booked a meal there for the evening.

The Tour de France photos and write up will appear on the next blog, when we do the final stretch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal. For now we're stopping here in Skipton until Sunday 6th July, when we leave for Leeds, so join us on our adventures for the final installment.... watch this space!